I was recently reading the book New Mercies by Sandra Dallas set in Mississippi (it is a really good book). One of the food items mentioned in the book is beaten biscuits. These biscuits date back to before baking powder or baking soda were available. Cooks used to use a compound called pearlash (potassium carbonate) as a leavener, but this resulted in a bitter taste. Instead, the biscuit dough was pounded and folded many times so that air pockets were formed in the dough. While the biscuits baked, the air pockets would expand making the biscuits raise. Items such as hammers, wooden mallets or old axe handles were used to “beat” the dough.

If you would like to try it, here is a recipe:

4 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup solid vegetable shortening
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup cold milk

In a large bowl, combine flour and salt, tossing with a fork to blend. Add shortening and butter; work fat into flour mixture with your fingertips until mixture resembles coarse meal. Make a well in center of mixture and add milk; stir to combine well. Turn out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead 3 or 4 times until dough holds together. Preheat oven to 400F . Grease baking sheet; set aside. Pat out dough about 1 inch thick and begin to beat it, using a wooden mallet or other implement, with a gentle, rhythmic motion. When entire surface has been well beaten, fold dough in half and repeat the process. Continue to beat and fold until dough is well blistered (20 to 30 minutes). Roll out dough 1/2 inch thick and cut into rounds with a floured 2-inch biscuit cutter; reroll and cut scraps. Repeat until all dough has been used. Prick top of each biscuit 3 times with a fork. Place biscuits on greased baking sheet; bake in preheated oven until golden brown (20 to 25 minutes). Serve hot.

Makes about 24 biscuits.